A friends’ weekend break from London, packed with architecture, a surprisingly epic hike and the best chimney cake of my life.
Prague was never really on my radar the way it should have been. One of those cities that everyone talks about, everyone seems to have been to — and somehow I kept putting it off. Then a group of us decided to just book it, and I’m genuinely glad we did, because Prague is one of those places that earns its reputation entirely.
We flew EasyJet from Gatwick on a Thursday morning at the end of January — yes, winter. Yes, it was cold. No, we didn’t regret it for a second. We were early enough to land by late morning and not waste the day — and came back Sunday. Four of us, three nights, one very good hotel and more cobblestones than I’ve walked in my life. Here’s exactly what we did.
Where we stayed — Grandior Hotel, Old Town
Book the Grandior Hotel early. We booked six weeks in advance and got two large double rooms with breakfast included — split between four of us, the cost was genuinely reasonable for what we got. The location is everything: you’re standing in the Old Town Square, which means on day one you walk out of the hotel and you’re already there.
The breakfast is worth waking up for. Proper European spread — we ate well every morning and it set us up for days of walking. The staff were helpful throughout, and they let us check in early on the first day which, after a morning flight, matters more than you’d think.
Day 1 — Old Town, Charles Bridge & Crashing Early
After an early check-in and dropping our bags, we headed straight out on foot. Prague is a city you walk. The streets are beautiful, the architecture is genuinely spectacular, and everything in the centre is close enough that you rarely need transport.
Old Town Square is the natural starting point. The pastel-coloured buildings surrounding the square look almost too beautiful to be real — like a film set someone forgot to pack away. We spent a while just walking around and looking up.
The Astronomical Clock is right there in the square and it’s worth the climb. The tower ticket costs around £9, which felt steep for a few minutes — until we got to the top and saw the view. The whole city laid out beneath you, all those terracotta rooftops and Gothic spires. That view alone justifies the cost.
From there, Charles Bridge is a ten-minute walk. Go in the daytime — we passed through in the evening on day one and came back on day two specifically for the daylight photos, which were completely different. The bridge is lined with statues and souvenir stalls, and the view of the river from the middle of it is one of those classic Prague moments that you’ve seen a hundred times in photos and that somehow still hits differently in person.
We were exhausted by evening — early flight, full day on foot — so we grabbed dinner near the hotel and slept early. No shame in that.
Day 2 — The Dancing House, Lennon Wall & the Best Dinner in Town
The Dancing House is one of those buildings that photographs don’t quite prepare you for. The structure — designed by Frank Gehry, with its twisting forms that look like two figures dancing — is genuinely extraordinary up close. Go inside and up to the top. There’s a café on the rooftop terrace, and here’s the trick: buy something from the café and the terrace access is included. Much cheaper than the standalone entry fee, and you get the same view.
The views from the top are brilliant — a different perspective from the Clock Tower, more intimate somehow, with the river below and the city stretching out in every direction.
We then walked back towards Charles Bridge and down to the John Lennon Wall. This is one of those spots that looks like a happy accident — a tucked-away wall covered entirely in graffiti, flowers, messages and Beatles lyrics, just off to the left of the bridge. There’s a hidden courtyard near the wall that is genuinely one of the most photogenic spots in Prague. We spent a long time here, which is exactly the right thing to do.
Prague Castle was one of those stops that exceeded every expectation. The castle complex sits high above the city on Hradčany hill, and the walk up alone gives you views across the rooftops that are worth the effort on their own. Once you’re up there, the scale of the place takes you by surprise — it’s not just a castle, it’s an entire district of palaces, gardens, churches and courtyards. We spent longer there than we planned to, which is always the sign of somewhere genuinely worth visiting.
St. Vitus Cathedral, right at the heart of the complex, is stunning — the Gothic architecture is extraordinary and it’s one of those buildings that makes you stop mid-sentence just looking at it. In winter, with frost still on the ground and the sky clear and blue above it, the whole castle complex had a stillness to it that felt almost magical. Fewer tourists, no queues, just the space to actually take it in.
Don’t rush this one. Give it at least two to three hours.
That evening: Lal Kila for dinner. An Indian restaurant a short Uber ride from the hotel, and it was exactly what we wanted after two days of walking. The food was excellent, the portions were generous and the atmosphere after a long day on your feet was perfect. If your group eats curry, go.
Day 3 — Bohemian Switzerland (The Unexpected Highlight)
I wasn’t sure about this one. A two-hour train journey each way for a hike sounded like a lot of effort on the last full day of a city break. It turned out to be the best decision we made on the entire trip.
Bohemian Switzerland National Park is about two hours from Prague’s main station by train — buy single tickets, roughly £5 per person each way, as you won’t know exactly when you’ll return. The train journey itself is beautiful: the route follows a river through forested gorges, and it sets the tone for what’s coming.
At Decin station, take a cab to the starting point of the hike (point 19 on the trail map, near Mezna Hotel). Get the cab driver’s number and arrange a pickup from the far end of the trail — this is important because the area is rural and cabs aren’t easy to find spontaneously. Our driver met us at the Hrensko bus stand at the end and the return journey cost about £30 between us, which was nothing.
The hike is 7-8 miles, easy-to-moderate, and takes roughly three to four hours depending on how often you stop. We stopped a lot. The landscape is extraordinary — dramatic sandstone formations, dense forest, the Kamenice River gorge running through it. We saw families with young children on the trail, so don’t be put off if you’re not a serious hiker. Wear comfortable shoes, bring water, and allow more time than you think you need.
We got back to the hotel by 7:30pm, had dinner at the hotel restaurant, and were in bed by nine. Completely done, completely happy.
Day 4 — Before the Flight
We had a couple of hours before needing to head to the airport, so we checked out, left luggage at the hotel, and walked.
Two things I’d insist you do if you have time: Amorino Gelato — proper Italian gelato in the Old Town, and the mango flavour specifically is exceptional. And the Czech chimney cake — available from stalls around the centre in about a hundred flavours. We got Nutella. It was as good as it sounds.
Then a cab to the airport, an EasyJet flight back to London Luton, and home.
Practical Notes
Getting around: Walk wherever you can. For longer distances, Uber works well and drivers are friendly and mostly English-speaking. Trams are cheap — roughly 50p per single journey — and reliable. Avoid the private taxis outside the airport; they’re significantly more expensive than Uber.
Airport to hotel: Uber from the airport to Old Town costs around £25 return. There are cheaper public transport options (bus and metro combinations from around £6) but after a flight, the Uber is worth it.
Best restaurants we’d recommend:
- Lal Kila — Indian, excellent, worth the Uber
- The Tavern — best burgers in the city
- Alforno Focacceria — Italian, good for a relaxed lunch
When to visit: We went at the end of January into early February — proper winter. And honestly? I’d recommend it. Yes, it’s cold, but it’s a bearable, wrap-up-and-get-on-with-it kind of cold rather than anything miserable. We had a full day of proper sunshine which made the Old Town look extraordinary — those pastel buildings against a bright blue winter sky photograph beautifully. The crowds were a fraction of what they’d be in summer, the major sights had no queues, and the whole city felt calmer and more authentic. If you can handle the temperature, winter Prague is genuinely underrated.
Best time to visit Bohemian Switzerland: We did it in January and it was absolutely fine — cold but dry, the trail was clear and we had the gorge almost entirely to ourselves. Avoid it if there’s heavy snow or ice forecast, but a crisp winter day actually makes the landscape feel even more dramatic.
Alternate Off-Beaten Path in Prague – Divoka Sarka
While the Bohemian Switzerland might be too far for some of you to travel, there is an alternate option for another off-beaten path. This is a great alternate for your day 3 plan.
Divoka Sarka – A nature reserve, just about 40 min from Prague, has well-marked trails that veer through a wild landscape of rocky cliffs, deep forests and a natural spring which eventually empties into the city’s most beautiful public swimming pool.
To travel to Divoka Sarka, Take the A (Green) Line metro to Nádraží Veleslavín and change to the 20 or 26 tram to their final destination on the outskirts of Divoka Sarka.
Other travel options from the Airport to Old Town Square
| Private Car Hire | Airport to Hotel direct ride via HOPPA | Return travel = £40 |
| UBER | Direct UBER ride to hotel | Return travel = £25 |
| Bus + Subway | 100 Bus to Nádraží Veleslavín Change stations [4 min walk] A Train to Muzeum – A Change [4 min walk] C Train to Florenc – C Walk 3 min to Hotel | Return travel = £8 |
| Bus + Tram | 119/191/322 Bus to Divoká Šárka Change stations [8 min walk] 26 Tram to Masarykovo nádraží Walk 6 min to Hotel | Return travel = £6 |
| Bus Only | AE Bus to Hlavní nádraží Walk 14 min to Hotel | Return travel = £5 |
Final Verdict
Prague is one of those cities that earns every bit of the hype — and then surprises you with something you didn’t expect. I went for the Old Town and the bridges. The hike through Bohemian Switzerland turned out to be the thing I still talk about. Go for four days if you can. Three is enough to do it justice, but you’ll leave wishing you had one more.
Would I go back? Yes — and I’d probably time it for spring, when the crowds are thinner and the city feels a little more like it belongs to the people who live in it.
Have you been to Prague? Somewhere you’d add to this itinerary? Let me know in the comments below. XX
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